Most Paris guide books you'll find in bookstores give facts and general travel information without going into the nitty-gritty, focused, practical details that most travelers and tourists really want. This guide is different. It focuses on the urgent needs, concerns, doubts and questions that English-speaking visitors to Paris routinely have — before, during and after their trip. This guide provides the vital information and answers to questions that you may not have even known to ask.
Below, you will find the full table of contents of this Insider Paris Guide. You can preview many sections of the guide before buying—just click on any of the linked sections.
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Purpose of This Guide |
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Around the world, the mere mention of Paris, France invokes thoughts of romance, style, excellent food, wine and champagne, stunning architecture, and passionate stories about events and people that have shaped fascinating history over time.
Like so many other visitors, I too was struck by the City of Light’s beauty and soul-capturing essence during a two-week holiday to Paris in October 2004. So much so that when I returned to my home in Canada, I developed a tour company, Nuit Blanche Tours, geared to welcoming other English-speaking visitors from around the world to Paris and then came back here to live just six months later. That was in April 2005 and the rest, as they say, is history.
Since then, our tour concept has grown in popularity and we’ve welcomed and shown hundreds of visitors ‘our insider Paris.’ We know what the most urgent needs, concerns, doubts and questions are from our English-speaking visitors—before, during and after arrival. They are the same ones we grappled with and now have answers to since living here and discovering the hard way, by chance, or through our vast network of friends in Paris—the answers to questions and vital information that people may not have even known to ask about.
Practical Paris is different from many guides currently on the market. Why? Most of the guides out there give facts and general information about Paris, without going into the nitty-gritty, ‘what do I need to know in order to book my Paris holiday’ focus that most travelers are looking for. Read our guide first for these practical details, then read the other guide books out there for more generalized information.
This guide is a vital tool that answers most often asked questions such as:
· How Do I Pick a Good Hotel in Paris?
· What is the Most Hassle-Free/ Cheapest/Easiest Way to Get From/Back To the Airport?
· What Clothes to Bring?
· What is the Best Time of Year to Visit Paris?
· What about Spending Money and the Language?
· What to Order on a Paris Menu?
· To Buy a Museum Pass or Not?
· How Safe is Paris, Especially for Women?
· How do I stay in touch with folks at home? Get the low-down on internet access/WIFI and calling home.
Finally, the Euro is at a high (at the time of this writing, one US dollar equals .72 Euros; one CDN dollar equals .70 Euros and one Australian dollar equals .60 Euros), so we know that just by coming here, many visitors are experiencing dollar exchange lows and resulting blues. Not to worry—we understand completely, and therefore always seek the best value in Paris, which we pass on to you. Contrary to popular belief, there are many free/inexpensive things to do and good buys to be had in Paris; this guide will lead you to them!
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Why Buy This Guide? |
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We know you are thinking, “there are tons of guides already out there and lots of free information on the Internet already about Paris, why should I buy this guide?” Simple! We’ve culled the information from literally hundreds of websites, but also from everyday discovery—and condensed the mountains of information into manageable chunks of details that we know our English-speaking visitors mainly from USA, Canada, UK and Australia need to know about when visiting Paris. This guide provides a practical and unique source of information to facilitate your travel holiday decisions; then you can read all the guides detailing the illustrious history and fascinating details about Paris.
This guide is intended as the starting point to saving you hundreds of euros and research time by using our solutions and insider knowledge for a Parisian experience that is free from hassles and needless expense. This guide is also good for people who are already in Paris. So, pour yourself a glass of wine, relax and read your way to a fabulous stay in one of the most exciting cities in the world!
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Paris In a Nutshell |
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Central Paris, with a population of 2.1 million people (2005 statistics), has a very small area of just under 100 square kilometers. No corner is farther than six miles from the square in front of Notre-Dame Cathedral. Therefore, it is possible to cover Paris completely by foot, if desired. The most visited city in the world has a fascinating, romantic 2,000 year history; no wonder every visitor finds something that resonates deeply within them.
Paris has an excellent, reliable, inexpensive, user-friendly and safe public transportation system. Driving a car or motorbike or scooter for tourists is definitely not recommended, unless you have an unfulfilled desire to be a NASCAR racer and are willing to take on all the risks that come with that! In Paris, drivers zip crazily around the city, motorcycles and scooters weave at top speed between cars, driving rules are sketchy and parking is extremely difficult. Visitors usually never have the need to venture outside of Central Paris to the banlieue (suburbs), with a population of over 10 million, however, transportation is plentiful should the need arise.
The currency in France is the Euro, indicated by the € symbol (for example, 10 €), and all prices on goods, services and at restaurants include taxes. What you see for anything is what you pay. Tips at cafés and restaurants are almost always included, although a small amount of a few euros could be left, if desired, for excellent service. Check your currency exchange rate before you arrive (see Useful Links).
Paris is a modern, bustling city, with up-to-date and high-tech systems, yet is filled with medieval charm and ways that are steeped in rich history. Some laws and practices date back centuries, therefore some quirky things about Paris and how it operates are puzzling to newcomers; indeed, to the French also! Many of these ‘quirks’ are discussed in this guide, and can add to the city’s charm!
Paris was at one time a walled city and is comprised of 20 arrondissements that spiral out from the centre (see the map here). The escargot-shaped Paris is split into the Right Bank (Rive Droit) and Left Bank (Rive Gauche) by the River Seine. It is easy to recognize which arrondissement an address is located in by the postal code, which consists of five numbers and starts with ’75.’ For example, an address in 75018 is in the 18th arrondissement, 75005 is in the 5th and so on. Each of these districts are vastly unique and have a different ‘feel’ to them, giving the city one of its nicknames – City of a Hundred Villages.
Paris has retained many of its mom and pop shops, and therefore is sprinkled with small bakeries, cheese, chocolate, wine, meat, fish and vegetable shops, and dozens of street markets happening on any given day of the week, such as the Bastille and Poncelet markets. For this reason, Paris shops, stores and markets have bizarre and varied opening and closing times. Many stores/restaurants still observe old-world customs by closing for two or three hours around lunchtime.
Paris is a multi-cultural city with a strong North African/Arabic influence, which sprinkles delightfully throughout the markets, restaurants/food, fashion and other cultural endeavors. Parisians can be seen dining on exotic fare such as couscous and tagine, Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, African and all kinds of cuisine from around the world. Asian gastronomy abounds in the 13th arrondissement and Belleville; Jewish in the Marais; African and the West Indies in Chateau-Rouge; Moroccan in Ménilmontant; and Indian in the area around Passage Brady.
Generally speaking, European cities are safer than North American ones, and this holds true for Paris. Despite the media’s highly blown-out-of-proportion publicity about riots, these events mainly take place outside of central Paris in the poor suburbs, where few tourists venture. Paris’ leaders have built huge, wide avenues for groups to march down, as well as massive monuments to gather at. So, the French march and protest and go on strike and probably always will. These manifs are considered normal and everyone joins in. They are for the most part, peaceful.
The main differences between European cities and American ones can be generalized as follows: in Central Paris there is generally speaking very little ‘gang’ mentality (the French are highly individualistic people); no groups of troubled youth riding around in cars looking for trouble (they don’t have cars), no guns being toted by individuals, illegal drug-usage is much lower and there is very little property crime (it is very difficult to penetrate most Parisian buildings which were built like impenetrable fortresses)! Most windows in apartments and hotels have heavy shutters that close completely over them, keeping out noise and intruders!
Pick-pocketing is the most common crime occurrence in Paris, and is very easy to shield yourself from. This means carrying an over-the-shoulder bag; no wallets in back or easy to get into pockets; no flagrant flashing of money while paying for things; no fumbling for metro tickets with wide-open purses. Don’t place your phone or Palm on table tops while at cafés or dining. Don’t hang your purse over the back of a chair. Use common sense and simply don’t give pick-pocketers opportunities to snitch your phone, wallet or purse.
Women may have to ward off the persistent attentions of ‘drageurs,’ local men who profess their undying love to foreigners. These men are more annoying than they are a danger. The best way to deal with them is to simply ignore them, don’t talk to them or look at them. Pretend they don’t exist and they’ll soon move onto greener pastures.
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Top Myths About Paris |
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MYTH #1: Paris is really, really expensive.
Explanation: Of course, in any city of the world, the sky is the limit when it comes to what you can pay for things. On the contrary, compared to most other major tourist destinations in the world, it is very possible to get by quite cheaply in Paris. Admission costs for museums and attractions are extremely reasonable, public transportation is a downright bargain and many restaurants feature attractively priced set menus. The main staples of life in Paris are plentiful and cheap: baguettes, wine, cheese, fruit and patisserie desserts. Where expenses can add up is having lots of drinks in cafés and bars. But since the café culture is one of the great pleasures of being in Paris, our advice is to pay the price and enjoy it!
MYTH #2: Paris is not safe.
Explanation: In general, European cities are safer than North American ones, since guns, gangs, personal property/bank robberies and drugs are not as common. The most common hazard in Paris, particularly for tourists, is pick-pockets, who particularly operate in highly populated tourist areas. Parisian pick-pocketers are very skilled and usually you would never even know if you were ripped off until much later. They search for easy opportunities to snatch a purse, wallet or cell phone. Simply don't provide these opportunities or make it easy to be a target, and you will be fine.
MYTH #3: You can’t wear jeans in Paris.
Explanation: We’re puzzled by where this myth originates, possibly because Paris is considered the fashion capital of the world. In fact, jeans are worn everywhere in Paris, by everyone, even Galeries Lafayette sales staff! While there are frequent sightings of funky and high fashion, Paris, on the whole, is a casual city. However, Parisians are never sloppy and always look put together no matter what they wear. Parisians are not known for wearing exercise-type wear out on the street, or short shorts, unless they are worn as a fashion item. These items worn will flag you as a tourist, especially if non-stylish, exercise-type white running shoes are worn with them.
MYTH #4: It is unsafe to take the metro, especially at night.
Explanation: The Paris metro system is filled with tourists and Parisians at all hours of the day and night and is considered safe. Likewise with buses and night buses. Something to be aware of: some people try to bypass buying a metro ticket so may squeeze up against you and come through the turnstile with you. Don’t be alarmed, they are not trying to rob you. Usually people will ask you if you mind if they do it. But unless you speak French, you will likely not know what they are asking!
MYTH #5: Parisians are unfriendly and rude.
Explanation: This myth couldn't be farther from the truth, since the majority of Parisians are kind, helpful and friendly. Upon first meeting, Parisians can appear to be less casual and more reserved by North American standards, however, this does not translate to unfriendliness. Be aware that often what you put out is what you get back, so if Parisians are approached in the right way from the beginning, chances of a more pleasant interaction increase. An attempt to speak the language goes a long way with Parisians. Always begin a conversation with ‘bonjour’, especially when entering a store. Asking immediately, ‘do you speak English?’ riles many Parisians and will start you off on the wrong foot. Think about it, if foreigners are constantly asking if you speak their language in a country where English is the official language, then how would that make you feel? Use your best school French and have fun with it; Parisians love to correct and help people with their admittedly difficult language!
MYTH #6: Paris operates the same as most other modern cities catering to large numbers of foreigners and tourists.
Explanation: Yes and no. On one hand, generally there is competent service, however, there are often long lineups and service can be slow to downright not good. Keep in mind that Parisians still pay for groceries, pharmacy and restaurant tabs with personal checks. The bottom line: Parisians are more concerned with lifestyle than with the pursuit of commerce. Let that be your guide. Relax, have fun with this cultural difference and enjoy the less stressful pace of life.
MYTH #7: The food is weird/bad.
Explanation: As is the case everywhere in the world, you can get weird, strange or bad food in Paris. Generally speaking though, the food, ingredients, cooking techniques and presentation are of a much higher caliber in France, considered the culinary capital of the world. 'Bad food' can translate to 'you ordered the wrong thing' and probably a dish that the North American palette is not used to such as tripe, for example. Establishments almost exclusively catering to large tourist groups may not be your best dining bets. Talk to locals and ask where they recommend to eat. Or, observe the plates of patrons at cafés/restaurants and ask them what the food is like. Portions may not be as large as in other countries, however, generally, the French have more than one course, eat slower and the food is of much better quality (farm-grown, less chemicals and preservatives etc.). Eating and drinking in Paris is a divine culinary experience.
MYTH #8: Paris is just like it is back home.
Explanation: It’s not, and why should it be? For some reason, visitors to Paris are particularly intolerant about differences such as laissez-faire service, less than pristine, modern washrooms, and the fact that another language is spoken (in other words, not their language). When people visit any other country, they expect and accept that differences exist, but for some reason, perhaps due to its leading reputation in so many areas, these things are not tolerated in Paris. You are on another continent, in another country, where another language is spoken and where the culture and customs are different. Period.
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Top 10 "Get Over It" Things About Paris |
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Yes, these ‘myths’ are true; prepare yourself to ‘get over it’ before you get here!
GET OVER IT #1: There is very little to no air-conditioning in France.
GET OVER IT #2: There is dog merde (poop) all over the streets of Paris.
GET OVER IT #3: If an elevator exists in a building, it is likely to be small as in ‘can’t turn around in it,’ or barely able to fit two people comfortably in it. Hotel rooms generally are much smaller than you would expect. Walls may be paper-thin or even the floors and ceiling may not match and may be crooked!
GET OVER IT #4: There are very few free public washrooms in Paris in the style that we are used to. In Paris, each washroom will be different and many public washrooms, including those in cafés, can range from really good to crappy. There still exist many ‘Turkish-style’ squatters in Parisian cafés and restaurants.
GET OVER IT #5: Second-hand smoke will be a big part of your culinary/bar/café-sitting experience until the full anti-smoking laws come into play in January 2008.
GET OVER IT #6: Expect your French to be corrected by Parisians, no matter how good it is. This can also be a very fun thing, as Parisians love to correct but also love to speak English and learn new phrases and terms.
GET OVER IT #7: It can be very difficult to get a taxi on a Friday or Saturday night, or on holiday nights, when it is raining or in highly populated areas. Plan accordingly if you are out after the metro closes, or be prepared to stay out until 5:30 or 6 the next morning when the metro re-opens.
GET OVER IT #8: When a store or café announces that it is closing, it’s closing, period. So expect to be shooed out immediately and unceremoniously. Don’t take this personally, just get out and come back another day.
GET OVER IT #9: Service as you probably know it is not the same in Paris. The ‘customer is number one and is always right’ rules don’t follow in Paris so don’t expect to be gushed and fawned over in service situations.
GET OVER IT #10: Carnivore-loving Paris is not a good place for vegetarians. Often, if there are vegetarian choices, they are cooked in animal fat, so it’s best to ask this question. Salads and assiettes in Paris are great and offer wonderful vegetarian choices. Non-meat eaters can also enjoy the diverse ethnic cuisine in Paris, offering an array of vegetarian choices.
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Best Times of the Year to Visit Paris |
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While Paris is a spectacularly magnificent, romantic and beautiful city to be in any time of the year, certain times of the year are better than others to visit, as cited below. To help you plan your holiday, to begin with, we’ve included a list of free events that take place in Paris weekly throughout the year, followed by a detailed list of popular events for every season.
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Season Breakdown |
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Best Times (Fall): September, October, November
Next Best Times (Winter): December, January, February
Next Best Times (Spring): March, April, May
Least Best (or Worst) Times (Summer): June, July, August
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Paris In Fall |
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While Paris is a spectacularly magnificent, romantic and beautiful city to be in any time of the year, fall is a particularly great season to visit, for several reasons. September bursts forth with energy as Parisians return to the city from their extensive summer vacations for the rentrée, after the ghost-town feeling of August when many Parisians retreat to their country vacation homes. The weather, particularly in September, October and November, is usually great; pleasantly warm during the day and cooler in the night, without being burning hot like it can be in summer. Also, the number of tourists has thinned out and prices on hotels, flights etc. are usually reduced. Finally, Paris provides a veritable feast of activities during this time of year, many of which involve food, wine, fashion and culture... read on for the exciting list!
• Autumn Festival: A number of venues all over Paris host a four-month-long arts festival which includes dramatic performances, movies, live concerts, such as the month-long outdoor jazz festival in the Parc de la Villette, dance and opera, and is the largest festival of its kind in the world. Held throughout the fall.
• Villette Jazz Festival: This yearly musical celebration (end of August to September) puts the emphasis on innovative and experimental jazz and features a series of free open-air concerts, which take place at Parc La Villette in the 19th, as well as other venues throughout the city. Performances blend music, theatre and video installations. Visit the official site for more information.
• Nuit Blanche (first Saturday in October): The mother of ‘all-nighters.’ This cultural festival originated in Paris and has subsequently been copied in cities throughout the world. Many attractions and the métro is open all night for free to the public, featuring concerts, film festivals, art, photography and multi-media installations and every other conceivable form of entertainment and culture. This festival is highly publicized in Paris, and free brochures detailing the huge numbers of events are available everywhere.
• Fête Des Vendanges De Montmartre: Celebrated during the second weekend in October, this is when the grapes are harvested from the vineyards in Montmartre, with a parade and all sorts of other activities going on for the festival. While the wine may be less than stellar in comparison to most French wines, partakers are very forgiving and nobody minds because many other wines are offered and the festivities are fun!
• Beaujolais Nouveau: Beaujolais Nouveau comes at the strike of midnight on the third Thursday in November. Throughout France, everyone heads out to their local café, restaurant or wine store to celebrate the newest wine offerings, made famous worldwide by the brilliant marketing strategies of Georges Duboeuf. Best to leave behind any wine snobbery about new vintages, and simply enjoy the new wines for what they are: light, fresh and tasty! Beaujolais Nouveau is the perfect wine for those who wish to progress from whites to reds.
• Le Grand Tasting: A brand new event introduced in 2006, this venue gets added as a permanent ‘must-do.’ Held at the end of November at the prestigious Carrousel du Louvre at the Louvre Museum, the 30 € admission gets you unlimited tastings at 200 stalls, featuring over 1,500 different wines and champagnes (including Dom Perignon), the vast majority of which are from France. Best to eat a filling meal before you go as only bread is offered at some stalls. Dress smartly for this venue. This event is well-publicized in Paris, so watch for ads that contain details.
• Prêt A Porter Paris: The Porte de Versailles Convention Center hosts vendors of ready-to-wear women’s clothing and accessories in an exposition for international designers and buyers, preceding Paris Fashion Week held at the Carrousel du Louvre. Held in early September.
• JVC Jazz Festival: The JVC Jazz Festival Paris covers all corners of the City of Light for ten days every October when the world's most exciting performers converge on Europe's jazz capital. Visit the festival’s official site for more informaiton.
• Marché au Chocolats: The Bourse de Commerce de Paris hosts an annual exposition of French chocolatiers, douceurs and confectioners, with lots of free samples, in mid-October. Mmmm. Call (33) 42 85 18 20 for more information.
• Salon du Chocolat: The Carrousel de Louvre hosts tastings and demonstrations by renowned chocolatiers and douceurs, including participants from the Cordon Bleu cooking school, at this annual exhibition, which features a Chocoland for children who can experiment with chocolate makeup. Held from the end of November to the beginning of December.
• Lalique Ice-Skating Trophy: Champion ice skaters from all over the world put on a grand show and compete for this coveted prize, at the Paris Bercy Palais Omnisports in mid-November. Call for more information.
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| Paris In Winter |
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| Paris In Spring |
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| Paris In Summer |
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| Free and/or Cheap |
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| How to Choose a Hotel |
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| Our Take on Hotels |
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| How to Pick a Hotel |
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| Breakfast in Paris |
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| Alternative Accommodation |
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| Furnished Apartments |
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| Getting From/To the Airport |
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| Private Shuttle |
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| Roissy Bus |
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| Air France Coach |
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| Métro/RER |
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| Getting To/From Paris Beauvais Tillé Airport |
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| Before You Come to Paris |
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| How to Pack |
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| Packing Do's |
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| Packing Don't's |
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| Toiletries |
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| Clothes to Bring to Paris |
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| When You First Get to Paris |
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| Métro/Buses/RER |
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| The Paris Métro |
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| What is the RER? |
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| Métro/RER Tips |
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| Buses |
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| Noctilien |
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| Sundays in Paris |
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| Paris Museums In a Nutshell |
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| About Food & Wine |
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| More About Food & Drink |
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| Shopping/Customs Issues |
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| Détaxe |
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| Bringing Back French Goods |
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| How Things Are Priced |
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| Healthcare in Paris |
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| Medical Help |
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| SOS Doctor-on-Call |
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| Computers, Internet Access, Calling Home |
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| WiFi |
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| Internet Establishments |
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| Public Telephones |
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| Peeing in Paris |
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| Public Washrooms |
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| Some Good Public Washrooms |
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| Having a Local Experience |
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| How to Not Come Across as an "Ugly Tourist" |
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| Fun Local Experiences |
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| Some of Our Favorite Places/Things |
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| Useful Links |
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Author Karen Henrich